Not Your Average Mother-In-Law
New Orleans has always been a home for lovable eccentrics—especially of the musical variety—and Ernie K-Doe's Mother-In-Law Lounge remains one of the finest examples of this city's historic venues. Kermit Ruffins continues this tradition at Treme's famous club.
A local NOLA singer Ernest Kador Jr., who went by the stage name Ernie K-Doe, first rose to fame as a young man with the Allen Toussiant-penned "Mother-in-Law," which went all the way to number one on the Billboard charts in 1961. The bouncy little novelty song ended up bolstering a career that spanned decades, with some fallow years, to be sure, and included some excellent R&B tunes including "A Certain Girl" and "Here Come the Girls," the former of which was covered by the likes of Warren Zevon, and the latter by NOLA's own Trombone Shorty and is still featured in Mardi Gras parades to this day.
Unlike other R&B singers of his era, Ernie K-Doe didn't really do pain and suffering. He was all about having a good time. The fun the band had on "Te-Ta-Te-Ta-Ta," his other biggest charting single, is palpable. Admittedly, the tune wears its Sam Cooke influence on its sleeve, but there's no harm in that. At other times, his vocals possessed a James Brown-like funkiness and grit that spices up the groove. There's nothing wrong with mixing up influences and putting a little spin on them, especially as the product of a city that celebrates that sonic diversity as a matter of pride.
A naturally charismatic showman and a charmingly relentless self-promoter, K-Doe was an exuberant DJ on both WWOZ and WTUL. In fact, "Burn, K-Doe, Burn," was one of his catchphrases. He even took to making ribald pronouncements such as "I'm cocky, but I'm good" and memorably referred to himself as "The Emperor of the Universe" or of "The World," depending on who you ask. He proudly sported flowing scarves, the aforementioned shiny suits, and a long green cape.
Mother-In-law
K-Doe's wife, Antoinette, helped to run the Mother-In-Law Lounge at 1500 N. Claiborne Ave. in the Tremé. The club pays tribute to its local eminence with a brightly colored mural that floats across the outside wall. It's a fun landmark to spot as you cruise over it on the highway.
This was where the emperor himself held court, exuberantly playing his hits and being a beloved local hero—until he passed on. With typical NOLA tenacity, the lounge kept going even after Hurricane Katrina poured several feet of water into it, though its future remained uncertain after the indefatigable Antoinette passed away in 2009.
In the great NOLA tradition of keeping traditions alive, another musical icon, Kermit Ruffins, entered the story a couple of years later. Ruffins became the new host of the lounge—renaming it Kermit's Mother-In-Law Lounge—and his skilled band still plays there several nights a week at 6 p.m., playing anything from a sprightly version of Louis Armstrong's classic "On the Sunny Side of the Street" to a playful version of "If I Only Had a Brain" and more.
The vibe is certainly familial. It has a small, cozy spot, like a living room feel to it. One of Ruffins' five daughters affably tends bar while another one might spontaneously sit in with the band and play an Alicia Keys cover, only to follow up with Scott Joplin's ragtime classic "The Entertainer," impressively done off the top of her head. A high schooler once debuted a lovely version of "Saving All My Love for You" on his flugelhorn. Ruffins' banters with the audience, jokes are cracked, and, oddly enough, the All In The Family theme song, "Those Were the Days," once made an appearance.
There's always a big pot of his succulent red beans and rice available in the back for a snack, included in the $30 cover charge at the door (local regulars get a discount), which might seem a little steep, but it's worth it, and it's necessary to keep a spot with some choice history alive in the modern era. Most places would rather just hire a DJ—because it's cheaper than having a live band.
Ruffins explained that the lounge "is getting by," though not by a large margin. "There isn't as much live jazz in the neighborhood" as he'd like. That said, the plethora of vibrant brass bands playing around town is a great thing.
"It brings tears to my eyes," Ruffins said, clearly proud to see that the kind of brass band music he helped to pioneer as a youngster is still thriving to this day. Ruffins cut his teeth as a founding member of Rebirth Brass Band in 1983 while attending Clark High School.
At the same time, Ruffins has recently turned 60, and this means that he's spent his life on the beat. A constantly gigging musician for over 40 years now, he's been everywhere. The man has certainly earned the right to retire if he wants to. There's been talk about playing with an orchestra, a longtime dream that will hopefully happen soon. There's plenty of music already written.
In the meantime, hopefully more tourists and locals alike will take it upon themselves to take a break from the Jazz Fest revelry and drop into a classically authentic New Orleans landmark. It's never too late to pay tribute to the Emperor of the Universe, as well as one of NOLA's key horn players, and bask in the fanfare.
